By Bernard L Supetran
There seems to be a
misconception that this province, touted as the “heart” of the archipelago
because of its central location, is a remote island far, far away. Truth be
told, Marinduque is relatively accessible even before airlines started flying
in—a 3-hour bus ride to Lucena City port, and a 3-hour roll-on, roll-off
(Ro-Ro) ferry ride to Balanacan, the gateway port and transport center where
all towns can be reached. For a seamless ride, Jac Liner has daily early
evening trips from its Cubao terminal.
And because of its
perceived isolation, our only image of Marinduque is the Moriones Festival
every Holy Week with the iconic wooden masks and regalia of the Roman soldiers
who crucified Jesus Christ. Now that province is marking its centennial
founding anniversary this week, it is inviting all and sundry to hit the road,
do some day-tripping and unmask the magic of this island.
With only 127 km of
good circumferential road which cuts through six municipalities of 956 sq.km.
land area, it is a compact paradise you can go around again-and-again. In fact,
some automobile and big bike groups have motored around the province in recent
years, and on Feb. 22-24, the Jeep Club PH held its National Jamboree to
unravel its charming countryside with their offroad vehicles.
Pit Stop 1: Mogpog. Marinduque’s sea gateway with Balanacan Port which is punctuated by the gigantic statue of provincial patroness Ina ng Biglang-Awa at a secluded cove which used to be a Spanish naval repair facility. The town is also home to the Luzon Datum of 1911, a rock marker which serves as the archipelago’s geodetic center as mapped by American engineers. The landmark is at a hill 275 meters above sea level which provides a commanding view of Tayabas Bay and neighboring towns.
Mogpog also takes pride in being the cradle of the centuries-old province-wide Moriones tradition which locals revere as an act of penitence, thanksgiving and sacrifice, and not a mere tourist spectacle.
Pit Stop 2: Boac. This provincial capital town is the hub of commerce, education, and government, and takes you to a time warp with the American-period all-wood ancestral homes, most of which were converted into tourist-oriented establishments.
Towering at an elevated portion is the Immaculate Conception or Boac Cathedral which was proclaimed in December 2018 as an Important Cultural Property (ICP) by the National Museum, because of its religious and historic value being a watchtower and fortress during the Spanish era. Within the church compound is the Shrine of the Our Lady of Prompt Succor. For a glimpse of the province’s checkered past, swing by the National Museum housed in an old Spanish building which served various functions.
The
población is the site of the cenaculo or passion play on Christ’s crucifixion,
which climaxes on Easter Sunday where main character Longinus the Roman
Centurion is beheaded upon orders of Pontius Pilate to stop him from telling
about Christ’s resurrection.
As
the service hub, Boac is the logical place to stay because with its lodging
facilities, urban necessities, transportation, and the all-important pasalubong
shopping.
Pit
Stop 3: Gasan. About 30 minutes south of the capital is this beach town noted for
its powdery beaches, most notably Tres Reyes Islands which literally means
“Three Kings.” Named Gaspar, Melchor, and Baltazar, each islet has a distinct
character, with some of its portion ideal for scuba diving.
The
municipality also hosts the Marinduque Airport where CebGo flies four times a
week to and from Manila.
In
Gasan’s outskirts is Talao Cave which has an exciting maze of caverns and
multi-level chambers ideal for beginner cavers.
Pit
Stop 4: Buenavista. Outdoors lovers can scale Mt. Malindig, the province’s
highest peak and dormant volcano which is habitat to endemic flora and fauna.
With an altitude of 1,157 MASL (meters above sea level), is rated as easy to
moderate by mountaineers.
Alternatively,
you can just laze and dip at the Marinduque Hot Springs Resort which has five
pools or the Malbog Sulfur Springs which is believed to have therapeutic
properties.
Pit
Stop 5: Torrijos. This obscure municipality made a mark in history when
Filipino troops routed US soldiers and captured their commander in the Battle
of Pulang Lupa during the Filipino-American War in 1900. This victory is
immortalized at a historical park at a ridge which has a panoramic view of the
eastern seaboard.
Beach
lovers can bask in the shores of Poctoy village, which has a mile-long stretch
of fine white to sugar brown sand. Trekkers can also do a quick ascent in
Sibuyao Highlands, a prospective farm tourism site which has a mesmerizing view
of a “sea of clouds” in the early morning and late afternoon. If time permits,
take it all the way to the Marinduque Wildlife Sanctuary which is habitat to
diverse flora, fauna, and endangered species.
Pit Stop 6: Sta. Cruz. This northeastern
town is a tourist area because of white island beaches of Polo, Mompong and
Maniwaya, which has a handful of resorts for overnight stays and base for
island-hopping. A few hundred meters offshore is Palad sandbar, which is made
up of crushed coral sands appearing only on low tides.
For
spelunking 101, Bagumbungan Cave is highly-recommended with its Class II 2-km
underground river, which has a profusion of fruit bats, reptiles, flowstones,
rim dams, speleothems and a cascading waterfall.
At
the town proper, say a prayer for God’s traveling mercies at the circa-1760
Holy Cross Parish Church, whose well-preserved altar retablo, pulpit and
original ceilings are considered heritage gems.
Going
by this route, you have circumnavigated Marinduque’s main road network and can
head back to Balanacan Port for Lucena, and back to Manila.
This article first appeared on Philippine Daily Inquirer
